The Gouffre de Padirac is the most spectacular way into the underground world of France. In the causse — the dry limestone plateau of the Lot, north of the Dordogne valley and a short drive from Rocamadour — the ground simply opens: a vast circular chasm 35 metres across drops sheer into the earth, and for centuries local people believed it was a gateway opened by the Devil. Today you descend it the way the first visitors did after the speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel explored the system in 1889 — down some 75 metres by lift and stairway, into cool, still air and a green half-light, until the daylight is a bright coin far overhead.
At the bottom you walk through galleries carved by an underground river over hundreds of thousands of years, 103 metres beneath the plateau, to a landing stage where flat-bottomed boats wait. With a boatman-guide poling you along, you glide down the mirror-calm river past walls that rise into darkness, beneath a single colossal stalactite — the Grande Pendeloque — that hangs from the roof of the Lac de la Pluie. Beyond the water you continue on foot into great chambers where rimstone dams hold pools like terraced glass and the vaults soar to the height of a cathedral. It is a landscape no sunlight has ever reached, and it has drawn travellers continuously since it opened to visitors in 1899.
Padirac opened for tourism at the very end of the nineteenth century and has been welcoming visitors for more than a century, today close to half a million a year — among France's most-visited underground sites. The full visit lasts around an hour and a half and is followed with an audioguide available in seven languages, so international visitors can take in the geology and the history at their own pace. Because it is so popular and admits guests in timed groups, high summer sees the site sell out; a reserved slot is what turns a long wait at the gate into a walk straight in.